DUCASSE BRINGS CONTEMPORARY FRENCH TO THE DORCHESTER
There is probably no hotel more British and traditional than the Dorchester. There is probably no French Chef more French than Alain Ducasse.
Both are at their very best when being either very British.....or very French. Do they belong together? I do not believe that they do! However I do not run the joint and those that do have concluded that it is 'a match'.
Jacques Chirac will of course be very proud. His relatively recent pronouncement about the state of British food has now been all but endorsed by the very institution that should be thumbing its' nose at his comments and promoting the fine culinary attributes of British Cuisine, British Design and the Culinary traditions of Park Lane.
..................or at the very least asking Chef Ducasse to use local ingredients in his interpretation of their very special qualities, as most executive chefs have to do as they travel around the world plying their trade.
Mais non........not only will Ducasse operate in a French designed restaurant, he will also import his Chef, his chicken, the caviar, the black truffles, the pigeon and most of the wines from France.
I may be wrong but it also looks to me like the service plate is from Germany so they are also avoiding British porcelains and fine bone china.
All this at a time when hotels and restaurants the world over are going to extraordinary lengths to explore the locally available ingredients, local artists, local furnishings and local talent.
Now here is a new one! One of their private dining salons has banquette seating and, heaven forbid, rectangular seating for maximum flexibility......and I might add minimum social interaction. They will doubtless be very successful and in spite of their foreign imports, will receive great accolades from all who are able to get a reservation. But it should be more than that. It should have been an extension of their existing traditions, a French interpretation of British values, British traditions....in fact a tribute.
This was a decision that someone made in a boardroom that sounded great and allowed blame to be delegated away but was not one that should have been taken for this property. The Dorchester is an iconic example of British hospitality.
Congratulations Alain, you will do well there...... and deserve to .........but please take some time to pay a little tribute to the traditions of the location and of the ghosts of those that preceded you in those hallowed kitchens on Park Lane.
And Jacques........don't you say another bloody word about this!!
Foreign is not always better! We have escaped, I thought, from the days where 'Continental or French Cuisine' was featured whether one was in Karachi or Kenya....or have we? The days have passed when travellers were looking always for their home food in the hotels where they travelled........ sure the Brits always seem to look for and find Fish & Chips in Spain and Americans their Hamburgers in Paris but we have moved on and now gain great pride from the traditions of the soil.
It is our responsibility to our neighbours, our farmers and our children...plain and simple.
Happy New Year!
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